Bits of blue paint shown faintly through the haphazard gray above it on one of the steep narrow stairwells that line the Ihwa Mural Village. I had hoped the news reports I read weren't true but the famed mural of koi fish that once swam their way up these stairs had been painted over by an angry resident in the middle of the night in 2016.

While walking through the Ihwa Mural Village I noticed a lot of the same signs that I saw in the Bukchon Hanok Village. Plastered on the sides of walls in various states of decay were pleas to be quiet. So often as tourists we forget that people are living their full lives in the spaces that we exist in only partially.

In 2006, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism transformed a poor neighborhood in Jongo, Seoul into the Ihwa Mural Village- a new site for art and tourism. I along with many other tourists walked our way up a series of hills to snap picks with these beautiful pieces of art. You can see a couple of examples below. However, with this new beautification came a lot of foot traffic and complaining from local residents prompting angry locals to vandalize not one but two iconic pieces of art.

In addition to the murals, there are a lot of new and cool shops and cafes have sprung up around the increased traffic. One shop has this beautiful view of downtown Seoul- as can be seen below. If I had more than a week in Seoul I definitely would have come back with a book and some tea. There was quiet a crowd when I was there but one owner stated in the Korea Herald that his business was down 35% since the vandalism occurred.

Meandering through the different areas in the mural village I thought back to my home of DC and how pushes to make poor areas economically viable often comes at the expense of local residents. I understand deeply how you can feel unheard as they make your neighbordhood better for everyone but you. I'm not sure whats best on a strucutral policy level but what I do know is that while traveling I hope to give more then I take.

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Past and present were separated by a single road in Seoul. Sky scrapers bow in front of the main gate of the Gyeongbokgung Palace. The sun reflecting off long glass panes making the grounds of the royal palace bright and vibrant.

Seoul like Tokyo was a city with their eyes looking forward into the future but their hearts rooted deeply in the past.

Gyeongbokgung was build in 1395 and was the main royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. The pillars above line the inner wall of the first gate that you walk through. This palace is the biggest and most visited of the 5 royal palaces that you can explore in Seoul.

By far my favorite part of this palace was the colorful pillars and ceiling inside of the first gate.

I really enjoyed the artifacts like the large drum in the middle. The entire complex was a lot larger then I had anticipated. I had to rush through the back part of the grounds because I had tickets for the Secret Garden tour in Changdeokgung at 2:45.

While all the tourists might be grouped in the middle courtyard taking pictures make sure you go around and explore more and get some pictures that other people don't have.

The detail work on these buildings is so astounding. I can only imagine what they looked like when first built. Much of what exists was rebuilt after Japanese Imperialism, in 1592, destroyed much of the grounds.

The photo below is from the secret garden tour in Changdeokgung built in 1405. Thankfully the two palaces are only a 15 minute walk between them which makes it a perfect way to spend half your day in Seoul. While Gyeonbokgung was favored by the kings the neighboring Changdeokgung Palace was the place where the prince's preferred to spend their time.

More than 2/3rds of the palace is actually a garden that can only be viewed through a group tour. Despite my aversion towards tours I have to say it was a great deal since it came in a museum pass.

There was a similar color scheme that I noticed between the two palaces. Lots of green with spots of bright yellow, red, and blue. Color was expensive and so the extensive use of color in these buildings was supposed to reify the power and strength of the monarchy. The middle photo is of an inscription that prays for long life and is on the top of a doorway that leads into a quiet shaded area with a beautiful pond.

The Garden Tour gives you an intimate look at what life might have been like hundreds of years ago. From quiet reading nooks by a lake to an area where the princes used to play royal drinking games.

If you are at all interested in history and architecture then this is definitely not something that should be missed. Be sure to subscribe so you never miss another addition to the archive.