Ayutthaya

 

Before Thailand existed there was the Kingdom of Ayutthaya known in foreign lands as Siam. The seat of this kingdoms power was a city named Ayutthaya. However in 1767 this city was destroyed by the Burmese causing an end to the kingdom and sowing the seeds for modern day Thailand.

When we ventured to this ancient city by train we rode in the cramped 3rd class car. Despite how crowded the train was vendors still managed to squeeze through with offerings of fruit, juice, and stir fry. Some basil rice and pork quieted my hungry stomach. When we arrived in the city, tour guides waited outside the train station to take you to the historical park. I had assumed the ruins of Ayutthaya was concentrated in one large place, instead it was spread out across 13 different sites. In order to make the evening train back we only had enough time to see 3 of them. We bartered with a tuk tuk driver to take us around and then we were off.

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When we arrived at the first Wat, rain threatened to ruin our day, however it was light enough that we didn’t have to run for cover. The first thing that stood out to me was the color of the brick, it was a warm red that stood out against the rainy overcast sky. I loved seeing the way time has affected different parts of the grounds. For examples some of the statues were worn away to nothing but the feet whereas others had whole torso’s still attached. I wondered what this place might have looked like in its former glory.

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The rain eventually vanished and the sun came out to join us as we made our way to the second wat.

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The second temple we went to was a lot more spread out with huge buildings organized around a central area. Whereas the first grounds we went to were super crowded these mostly empty except for structures so tall that you felt small by comparison. I imagine the priests who walked up those large steps must have had thighs of steel.

The third temple was similar to the second but we didn’t get much time to explore since we had to make it back for the evening train to Bangkok. When you are busy photographing time just evaporates. We sat in the station eating sticky rice and grilled meats happy with our successful outing as we waited for the train to arrive.

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Hoi An

 

On the central coast of Vietnam lies the city of my dreams. It earned this title, not for its temples or lush green landscape but because it’s the center for tailoring in all of SE Asia. Hoi An is the city of a thousand mannequins where streets are lined with stores overflowing with fabrics ready to be crafted into whatever you want.

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Hoi An is a tranquil town that used to be the site of a major trade port in Vietnam until Danang replaced it. Now the city is known for its well preserved downtown and its tailoring economy. On any street in Hoi An you will be able to spot at least 4 tailor shops. The outside are always packed with mannequins draped in dresses, pants, and shirts, beckoning you to come in and explore their offerings. Most stores offer most of the same but the real trick to Hoi An is getting them to make clothes custom for you. I scheduled myself a week and a half just to run around getting clothes made.

After I dropped off my luggage at my hostel I started walking around the city my peace was broken when a middle aged Vietnamese woman came up to me asking me where I was from. The point was to get me to come back to her shop and see her clothes, I politely declined but this was not the last time i had this interaction. In a city with so many options you really can’t just follow any old woman into a store. I looked up the best reviewed spots on Trip Advisor and then walked around them examining the fabric they had on offer, the prices for different outfits and the quality of their stitching. After gathering my info I whittled it down to three places and got custom outfits made to see what the process was like before I finally get all the rest of the pieces I wanted made. The entire process takes about 2-3 days for simple things like pants, skirts, dresses but it can take up to a week for complex items like suits.

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When I wasn’t running back and forth between fittings I was exploring all that Hoi An has to offer. My favorite part of the city is the old town with its rustic yellow walls and paper lanterns strung across the street like ornaments. You could feel the history as you walked through the narrow alleys and along the banks of the river. Hoi An also had the best Banh Mi in Vietnam, with a stall aptly named the Bahn Mi Queen slinging some of the best ingredients between a french baguette i’ve ever had.

Sadly my days of getting clothes custom made and chowing down on Banh Mi had to come to an end. With a suitcase full of new clothes and a stomach full of food made with joy I headed back to Hanoi.

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Nara

 

Nara's main ingredients are deer, history, and temples. After thousands of years of close contact, because deer are regarded as messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion, the deer have developed a familiarity with humans that I have never seen before. The deer in Nara are famous because if you bow at them they will return the gesture in exchange for crackers. I thought it was such a lovely idea. A city full of deer. And for the first couple hours it was.

Nara was Japan's first permanent capitol and the Nara period lasted from 710-794. While debates rage in the linguistic community as to the origin and meaning of the name Nara, one thing that is certain is that if you go to Kyoto, Nara makes for a perfect day trip.

 

The market stalls around the station were the smallest I've seen yet. The prices have steadily fallen since Tokyo, skin masks that were previously 1000 yen were now 700 yen. Out first stop was Toda-ji Temple, Eastern Great Temple, one of the 7 great temples located in Nara.  Deer roam the grounds of this ancient site and as we entered the first gate to head to the Great Buddha Hall seen in the photos above my take on the abundance of deer in the city changed. A pair of school children were feeding a deer when it abruptly started peeing right in front of them. I turned around to get away from the sight only to see a deer pooping a couple feet away. The Buddha in Toda-ji Temple is the largest bronze buddha in the world. It is the representation of Vairocana, the celestial buddha, an embodiment of the concept of emptiness. 

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My favorite statue in the temple was not the grand Buddha, but this wooden statue I came across after exiting the temple. The statue is of Binzuru, also known as Pindola Bharadvaja, one of Buddha's disciples. According to custom if you rub a part of Binzuru and then that same spot on your own body your ailment will disappear. We exited the temple grounds and were about to cross the street when some deer ambled across ignorant of the red lights and the drivers hoping to continue on their daily commute. I looked around the city, a large park to my right, the temple behind me and suddenly I started to realize that the entire city smelled like shit and pee. I wasn't sure how I never noticed it before but the scent was pervasive.   

Our next stop on our Nara tour was the Harushika Sake Brewery. The origins of sake are hard to trace but most sources place the first recordings of it during the Nara period. At this brewery you can taste 5 different sakes for 500 yen which is less then $5, as well you get a cute little souvenir sake glass that I brought back as a gift for my father. While I gained a lot of knowledge during my time at the Craft Sake Fair, I got to try a couple sakes that I've never tried before like the Daiginjo Shiromiki, which is sake that's only partially filtered so there's still rice sediment and it was a little fizzy. Sejan and I left the brewery with a take away bottle that we drunk as we made our way to another one of Nara's hidden gems. 

Maguro Koya, is the perfect way to soak up the alcohol from the sake tasting at Hiroshika. Its a tiny restaurant that was filled with locals and the only thing it serves is tuna. I got tuna three different ways. I had a delicious raw tuna steaks, then shredded tuna over a bowl of rice, and then fried tuna cakes. Before I came to Japan I definitely would have stated that my favorite fish was salmon. Tuna to me always used to invoke a squat can filled with a mysterious liquid and an even stranger meat. But I have been blown away with the subtlety of flavor that tuna provides. Now I've seen the light.

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The end to Sejan and I's day started where it began. Full on food as simple as it was delicious we made out way towards the Kofuku-ji Temple to buy some of the crackers so we could feed the deer. Trying to feed the deer at the same time as we tried to get photos of us proved more difficult than anticipated. While some of the deer were super sweet as soon as some of the older deer spotted the crackers they would charge at you and sniff all around you trying to figure out where they were. Sejan and I had watched earlier as this couple had their starbucks knocked out of their hand as the deer ripped open the bag in search of crackers.

With the deer as full as we were Sejan and I headed back to Kyoto for one final day of exploration. Subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive! 

DivaNun Guide/Seoul

 

This DivaNun Guide is a one pager of everything to do, see, and eat in Seoul. 


Historical 

 

  • The Royal Palaces

    •  Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung, Gyeonghuigung

      • I've highlighted the ones I've seen

      • The palaces have a fee to enter but buying the bulk pass for all 5 palaces is the cheapest option even if you don't see every palace.

      • Bulk Pass Price: 10,000 won

  • Bukchon Hanok Village

    • A preserved version of a village during the Jonseon Dynasty. 
    • You can wander around the village for free but I highly suggest you pay to get into the observation deck.
    • Observaiton Deck Price: 3,000 won

    Cultural 

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    • Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art

      • An amazing art gallery that combines both ancient and contemporary art. One of the best interior designing I've ever seen in an art museum. 

    • Hongdae Neighborhood

      • This is where the university is and where my hostel was located. A great place for partying and night life. Lots of good restaurants to explore.

    • Itaewon Neighborhood

      • This is a very foreigner heavy district. There are some good restaurants but overall not a place I prefered to hang out out.  

    • Gangnam Neighborhood

      • The bright and shiny neighborhood south of the river. I found this place to be very expensive and didn't hang out there very much. 
    • Ihwa Mural Village

      • Murals and cute cafe's line the hills of this cute little village. 

    Miscellaneous

    • Facebook Pages
    • Night Life
      • Gay/Trans (Homo Hill)
        • Tucked away in Itaewon is Homo Hill where a number of different bars catering to gay and trans people are placed. 
      • Thursday Party (124-6 Itaewon 1(il)-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea)
        • A fun bar with a mix of both tourists and local college students. Though it does lean more heavily tourist. The drinks are strong and it will be popping on a weekday
      • NB1/ NB2 (362-4 Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea )
        • Large loud club on weekends. Open very late. Always packed
        • They play hip hop and pop music. 
        • Free before 10pm the cover starts off at 10,000 won before 11 and it rises at midnight. 
    • Accomodation
      • Time Travelers Party Hostel in Hongdae
        • 11 Yeonhui-ro 2-gil, Sinchon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul, South Korea
        • Very cheap and amazing hostel. DJ the owner is really chill and they go on group BBQ dinners on Friday. 
        • Youthful staff and a bar in the game lounge made this a very social and amazing place to hang out.
    • Souveniers
      • Skin care products are a must when you go to Seoul. It's so much cheaper then the United States. My favorite store was Skin Food but also Nature's Republic is forever bae. 

    Food

    After a month of Japanese food I was looking for something spicy and different. 

    • Cafe Blanc (173-14 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea)

      • This was a cafe near my hostel. They served freshly baked bread and other dishes that took their inspiration from France but use Korean foundations. 
      • The fried pork sandwich and the pastries above were my favorite things.
    • Piggy Bank (331-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea )

      • I was told that unlike in the states Korean Barbque has meat specific restaurants. The first shop I went to was chicken only but piggy bank gave me the juicy pork and beef korean barbque that I love. The meat here is cooked over hot stones and it was so good. 
    • Korean Fried Chicken

      • I don't have a favorite place for fried chicken in Seoul because everywhere I ate was delicious and the portions were huge. 

    • Vegetables

      • Korea is a place that eats a lot of meat so aside from the Banchan, the small plates of fermented veggies and other good stuff, that comes with your bowl of rice and meat you won't eat very much green stuff. I even resorted to eating a salad because I was so  desperate for a vegetable

    Transportation/ Navigation

    Inside of a city bus in Seoul.

    Inside of a city bus in Seoul.

    • In Seoul
      • While there aren't as many sings in english as there where in Tokyo I had no problem navigating the urban transportation infastructure. I took buses and trains and always managed to get where I intended
      • Google Maps does not give walking directions so it's terrible for that but I was able to plot all my bus and train travel using it
    • To Seoul
      • There are non stop flights from Tokyo to Seoul but I decided that I wanted to add some extra cities for my trip. So Instead I flew to Fukuoka and took the Ferry from Fukuoka, Japan to Busan, South Korea,
      • Ferry Travel
        • The Ferry is very cheap and if you have tome to squeeze in two extra cities its one of the best ways to travel. A one way ticket only cost me $65 and takes around 3 hours over the sea of Japan. 
        • Important Reminder you have to pay port taxes in cash before you can get on the boat. It's  about 600 yen on the Japanese side and 3,000 won on the Korean side. I thought I could pay in card in Busan and I almost missed my ferry home. 

    Next Visit

    • Boseong Green Tea Fields
      • Can you imagine the photoshoots I would pull in these luscious ass fields
    •  Sunny Books
      • LGBT Book store in Itaewon
    • Jjimjilbang
      • 24 hour beauty spa's, where you can get massages and soaks in all kinds of different rooms.
      • Siloam is the one I heard was the best

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    Bukchon Hanok Village

     

    Close your eyes and imagine with me: you step off the bus in Seoul. Your downtown and you can tell because the sky greets you with metal clouds that glitter in the night and reflect the world during the day. You walk 3 blocks north and duck east into an alleyway and suddenly you're transported back to the Joseon Dynasty. The rush and hecticness of the city fall away as you explore the narrow alleys and intricate details of the traditional Korean houses called "hanok". People wander around you dressed in high-waisted, A-line dresses  called Hanbok's- they are bright and colorful. You are lost in another time, but fantasies don't last forever and the woman wearing the hanbok pulls out a selfie stick and you're transported back to the present. 

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    For my first full day in Seoul I wanted to do as much exploration as possible. Thankfully the Bukchon Hanok village is situated in between the two main palaces. Word of advice Google maps does not work for street by street directions. It was able to tell me where the bus would pick me up and drop me off, however, I had to navigate the winding streets around my hostel to get there. 

     I walked over 9 miles in total my first day, but it was worth it because the village was originally created to house nobility and high-ranking government officials.  And you can really see the majesty in these houses through the intense attention to detail. Despite years of wear and tear the attention paid was so clear. 

    As I wandered around the village I stumbled across this street art that took up the bottom portion of a large wall. I wasn't sure if it was history lesson from the Joseon Dynasty or some kind of protest art.

    Besides taking photos and exploring the maze that makes up this village I highly suggest everyone find the Bukchon Hanok Observatory. From there you can see the roofs of all the houses and the beautiful patterns they made. Looking south you can see the roofs of these hundred year old houses and how the blend into modern city, looking north and the hanok's fade off into the base of the mountain. 

    Exploring the history of Seoul through this village was the perfect introduction to Seoul, a city that blends so seamlessly the past, present, and future. Make sure you subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!