Kanda Matsuri

March 29, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

I came to Tokyo without knowing anyone and yet as I hugged Alana and Laura I knew that I was saying goodbye to lifelong friends. This travel was all about trusting in the universe and as they made their way to the bus station I knew that the universe will provide me with the people I'm meant to meet on my journey. I had one final bite of an amazingly delcious matcha cheesecake before Sejan, and I went off to one of the biggest festivals in Tokyo- Kanda Matsuri.

The Kanda Myojin Shrine, which is the focal point for the festivities enshrines three different dieties: Daikokuten, Ebisu, and Taira Masakado. The festival started during the 17th century as a way of honoring the prosperity of the Tokugawa Shogun. Portable shrines called, mikoshi, are paraded from their neighborhood of origin to the Kanda Myojin for a blessing before heading back.

The Mikoshi is carried by teams dressed in jackers that symbolize their neighborhood. Like most things in Japan, the process was extremely organized despite the sheer magnitude of the event. One by one the teams led by a leader would fill the street with their colorful jackets and their brightly adorned mikoshi chanting loudly. The mikoshi would bob up and down the entire team working in unison. After watching a couple of neighborhoods stream by we dashed across the street to get a closer look inside the temple.

The smell of grilled squid and takoyaki filled my nostrils and the sound of a flute like instrument paired with drums competed against the loud chants for my attention. No longer in the open air of the street, the energy rebounded off the walls and vibrated in my bones. We followed behind a group as they made their way into the center of the shrine. A large man appeared and did some kind of prayer as the people who carried the mikoshi took a rest. Once the short ceremony was over and the revelers returned to their neighborhoods a brief calm took over the floor. However, shortly after they left I could hear the sharp claps of the wood blocks as another team from a different neighborhood came to take part in this ceremony. A smile broke across my face, thankful for my ability to experience different traditions and to share this with one of my oldest friends.

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Kinkaku-ji & Ginkaku-ji

February 16, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

Nervously, a pair of girls in matching plaid skirts and white shirts came up to me with a piece of crumpled paper in one hand and a pencil in another. They expressed they were at Ginkaku-ji, The Silver Pavillion, for a school project to interview tourists about Japan. I now understood why the gaggle of children had been starring at me since my arrival. They had been working up the courage to interview me. When I responded to their first question in Japanese their faces lit up. After they finished their questions we posed for the photo below.

After the photo Sejan and I made our way out of the pavillion grounds and headed off to get some food. Satisfied and exhausted from our final day of exploration around Kyoto. After returning from Nara we only had one full day before we caught the night bus back to Tokyo. We decided to check out the sibling pavillions of Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji.

Turned into a Zen temple after the death of the wealthy Shogun that bought it, Kinkaku-ji ( The Gold Pavillion) might be one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. It stands solitary on a lake. A reminder that pure beauty is sometimes best presented without distraction. The top two floors of this pavillion are covered in gold leaf and when the midday sun illuminates this pavillion the entire grounds take on a warm golden glow. Despite not arriving till after noon the crowds of tourists didn't impede our photographic pursuits. Kinkaku-ji does not take a long time to explore, the pavillion on the lake is the main attraction so afterward we caught the bus to Ginkaku-ji.

Ginkaku-ji (The Silver Pavillion), was built by the grandson of the Shogun who created Kinkaku-ji. The architecture of the former was used as inspiration when creating Ginkaku-ji. The grounds of The Silver Pavillion are a lot grander than the Gold. Perhaps because the pavillion itself is unremarkable. My favorite part of this complex was the Sea of Silver Sand a gorgeous dry sand garden. The photo above is of the Moon Viewing Platform the main attraction of the sand garden.

The rest of Ginkaku-ji has been beautifully landscaped to take advantage of the rocky terrain and sharp changes in elevation of the grounds. With large trees and rocks placed around pools populated by fish. This pavillion could double as a garden. After hiking up Fushimi Inari and dashing across the city this was the perfect peaceful end to our trip to Kyoto.

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Nara

February 2, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

Nara's main ingredients are deer, history, and temples. After thousands of years of close contact, because deer are regarded as messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion, the deer have developed a familiarity with humans that I have never seen before. The deer in Nara are famous because if you bow at them they will return the gesture in exchange for crackers. I thought it was such a lovely idea. A city full of deer. And for the first couple hours it was.

Nara was Japan's first permanent capitol and the Nara period lasted from 710-794. While debates rage in the linguistic community as to the origin and meaning of the name Nara, one thing that is certain is that if you go to Kyoto, Nara makes for a perfect day trip.

The market stalls around the station were the smallest I've seen yet. The prices have steadily fallen since Tokyo, skin masks that were previously 1000 yen were now 700 yen. Out first stop was Toda-ji Temple, Eastern Great Temple, one of the 7 great temples located in Nara. Deer roam the grounds of this ancient site and as we entered the first gate to head to the Great Buddha Hall seen in the photos above my take on the abundance of deer in the city changed. A pair of school children were feeding a deer when it abruptly started peeing right in front of them. I turned around to get away from the sight only to see a deer pooping a couple feet away. The Buddha in Toda-ji Temple is the largest bronze buddha in the world. It is the representation of Vairocana, the celestial buddha, an embodiment of the concept of emptiness.

My favorite statue in the temple was not the grand Buddha, but this wooden statue I came across after exiting the temple. The statue is of Binzuru, also known as Pindola Bharadvaja, one of Buddha's disciples. According to custom if you rub a part of Binzuru and then that same spot on your own body your ailment will disappear. We exited the temple grounds and were about to cross the street when some deer ambled across ignorant of the red lights and the drivers hoping to continue on their daily commute. I looked around the city, a large park to my right, the temple behind me and suddenly I started to realize that the entire city smelled like shit and pee. I wasn't sure how I never noticed it before but the scent was pervasive.

Our next stop on our Nara tour was the Harushika Sake Brewery. The origins of sake are hard to trace but most sources place the first recordings of it during the Nara period. At this brewery you can taste 5 different sakes for 500 yen which is less then $5, as well you get a cute little souvenir sake glass that I brought back as a gift for my father. While I gained a lot of knowledge during my time at the Craft Sake Fair, I got to try a couple sakes that I've never tried before like the Daiginjo Shiromiki, which is sake that's only partially filtered so there's still rice sediment and it was a little fizzy. Sejan and I left the brewery with a take away bottle that we drunk as we made our way to another one of Nara's hidden gems.

Maguro Koya, is the perfect way to soak up the alcohol from the sake tasting at Hiroshika. Its a tiny restaurant that was filled with locals and the only thing it serves is tuna. I got tuna three different ways. I had a delicious raw tuna steaks, then shredded tuna over a bowl of rice, and then fried tuna cakes. Before I came to Japan I definitely would have stated that my favorite fish was salmon. Tuna to me always used to invoke a squat can filled with a mysterious liquid and an even stranger meat. But I have been blown away with the subtlety of flavor that tuna provides. Now I've seen the light.

The end to Sejan and I's day started where it began. Full on food as simple as it was delicious we made out way towards the Kofuku-ji Temple to buy some of the crackers so we could feed the deer. Trying to feed the deer at the same time as we tried to get photos of us proved more difficult than anticipated. While some of the deer were super sweet as soon as some of the older deer spotted the crackers they would charge at you and sniff all around you trying to figure out where they were. Sejan and I had watched earlier as this couple had their starbucks knocked out of their hand as the deer ripped open the bag in search of crackers.

With the deer as full as we were Sejan and I headed back to Kyoto for one final day of exploration. Subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!

Bamboo & Kimono Forest

January 17, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

The morning light danced across the tall stalks of bamboo. When I looked up the sky was replaced by a field of green. My legs were still sore from the four-hour hike up Fushimi Inari, as Sejan and I explored another one of Kyoto's wonders the Sagano Bamboo Forrest. Located on the western edge of the city at the foot of the Arashi mountain the Bamboo Forrest is one of Japan's premiere soundscapes. Peace and tranquility are embodied in every swish and sway of the bamboo stalks.

I reached out and touched the tall stalks and I was surprised by how thick and strong it was. After seeing them sway in the wind I had expected the bamboo to be soft and pliable, easily broken. However I was mistaken, bamboo has long been revered in Asian cultures for its resiliency and strength. There's an ancient Japanese Proverb "The bamboo that bends is stronger than the oak that resists." When this proverb is applied to travel, I interpret it as praising the benefits of being adaptable and going with the flow. Things don't always work out how you plan but whats best in those moments is to figure out what you can do in the present.

Despite being called a forest the grounds of Sagano weren't actually that large. Which was good for us because we couldn't have handled as much walking as we did the previous day. However, I've seen photos from the bamboo forest on Instagram that Sejan and I could not find during our exploration but assume were behind some of the locked gates.

After we left Sagano we made our way to another colorful and unappreciated site in Kyoto- the Kimono Forrest.

While in Seoul, one of the people in my hostel mentioned that there was really beautiful place near Arashiyama station that see no tourists. When I saw the photo he showed me I knew I had to go. Six hundred tall pillars of dyed fabric make up the Kimono Forrest. The fabric is dyed in the traditional Kyo-Yuzen method. At night the pillars are lit up and the illuminated trail takes you to a gorgeous pond with an orb and a dragon sitting in the middle.

Starting off your day with a stroll around the Sagano Bamboo Forest and then the Kimono Forest is an amazing way to spend a morning in Kyoto. Make sure you Subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!

Fushimi Inari

October 3, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The sun wasn't even out when my alarm shook me awake. My eyes half open, I climbed down off the bunk bed making sure not to awake the person on the bottom. Through the dim light I could see that Sejan's bed was already empty. It took every fibre of my being to stay awake but I knew we had to arrive before the hoards of tourist descended.

By the time we were on our way the city of Kyoto was just starting to wake. Buisnessmen rushed past us heads focused on emails. School children were groggy as their parents took them to classes. We stopped by a bakery before we started our cimb. The curried pork was cradled in thick dough and provided the energy we needed for the two hour hike up Fushimi Inari.

The food vendors that line the way to the main shrine of Inari, the God of rice, fertility, and agriculture, were just beginning to set up as we first set our eyes on the beautiful vermillion gate. Fushimi Inari existed before the capital was moved to Kyoto in 794, and you can tell that the mountain contains a powerful energy. So it's fitting that the mountain is adorned with thousands of torii gates- whose existence serves to demarcate the transition from secular to sacred.

Sejan and I made our way to the Senbon Torii, two parallel rows of gates that sprout from behind the main shrine at the Romon gate. By this point, the sun was still faint, not strong enough to illuminate the dense cluster of gates that start the beginning of the hike.

The senbon torii empties you into the first of many small shrines that dot the mountain side. A tiny fox sits on a stone pedastal with a piece of wheat dangling from its mouth. In Shinto mythology foxes are seen as Inari's messengers and are also portrayed with keys and other objects in their mouth.

The trail is relatively level the first half. The Torii gates get further apart and specks of green stand cool against the warmth of the vermillion. Some of the gates are well aged, bearing the weight of the prayers that placed them there. While others gleam shiny and new. The gates have been paid for by business and individuals which is why Fushimi Inari is one of the few shrines in Kyoto that is free of charge to enter and explore. 4,000 dollars can get you a small gate while six figures can fetch you one of the extremely large gates.

After walking past a beautiful stream the pathway turned to stairs. At this point more people joined us on the narrow trail. Despite being no earlier then 9am the steep incline of the stairs and the breathability of my gown caused me to sweat profusely, but Sejan and I press on. We pass a few restaurants selling water, snacks, and other refreshments. As well we see the price of water in the vending machines increase the further up the mountain we go. My calves are tight, I pray that we are more than half way up the mountain.

A plateau appears where I can see and hear people gathering. I gathered my energy thinking we've reached the top. As I cross the last stair a strong breeze greets me like an old friend. The city of Kyoto looks snug in between a forrest and another set of mountains off in the distance. I turn around and instead of being greeted with a big shrine I see three different trails as well as a small sign that states the peak is still a 50 minute hike away.

After climbing the equivalent of 39 flights of stairs Sejan and I made it to the peak. By then it was extremely crowded and it no longer felt like we had the mountain to ourself. The quiet and tranquil walk we had as we journeyed up the mountain was replaced with the sounds of camera shutters, sneakers falling on the concrete, and crying children. The breezy cool morning air was now filled with stagnant heat which would have made just starting the climb unbearable. The further we got down the mountain the more congested it became.

My beautiful dream had become a nightmare. It was hard to believe that Sejan and I were on the same mountain. Once we exited the main gate we looked around and a sea of people greeted us. The food vendors now operational filled the air with delicious scents of fried chicken, takoyaki, and grilled meats.

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Aoi Matsuri

September 25, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The bus ride from Tokyo to Kyoto happened under the cover of darkness. The pale sunlight of the early morning signaled we had arrived in the once capital of Japan. The restaurants of Kyoto had yet to open their eyes for the morning rush so Sejan and I ate food from a convenience store as we waited in the brisk air for our hostel to open.

Once the time came we began to make our way to our hostel. The train station that we arrived in dominated most of the view of the city but as we explored more Kyoto began to resemble a city from a 90's anime.

We first heard of the Aoi Matsuri over some amazing buttered toast after check in. The couple next to us struck up a conversation and mentioned they were going to see the most boring parade in Kyoto. Which also just so happens to be one of the longest running festivals in the entire world. Aoi is Japanese for Hollyhock and the festival is named after the leaves of the flowers that are worn by members of the procession.

The Aoi Matsuri began sometime in the 6th or 7th century and predates Kyoto becoming the capital in the late 8th century. To give some historical perspective this festival started around the same time Islam began. The Tang Dynasty has just begun its rule China, and the Byzantine empire started to shrink from outside threats.

The procession starts at the southern gates of the Imperial Palace of Kyoto, there are paid seating at various points along the parade route but we just stood on the street. What made the Aoi Matsuri so interesting was that the people in the parade were completely silent. They file by you as if you aren't even there. A long continuous stream of people flow out of the gate, dressed in bright colors, some bearing only a hollyhock branch, while others carry large umbrella's or pull beautifully decorated oxen and horses along the route.

Serendipity brought us to Kyoto on the day of one of its oldest festivals. I was excited to see what else Kyoto would share with us as we explored its beauty and history. Make sure you subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive!

Shinjuku Gyoen & Meiji Shrine

September 4, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

My legs were sore, tiny bolts of electricity danced through my calves with every step I took. The pedometer in my iPhone calculated had just hit 9 miles today almost on par with the 10 I walked yesterday. The line graph since Sejan's arrival jutted high like a mountain, towering above the days spent at home. I was spending my time in Tokyo more like a vacation and less like a natural part of my everyday life.

When you travel with someone you have to make sure that you have similar travel styles. Good friends do not always make good travel partners. On vacation Sejan moves at a lightning pace, routinely walking a mile in the mornings before I had even woken up. Meanwhile, I like to slow down, stretch out the hours until I melt into the local vibrations. Despite the difference in our speeds Sejan and I made great travel buddies because we care a lot about good food, taking amazing pictures, and being efficient.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is an oasis in the middle of hectic, chaotic, and busy Shinjuku. Rows of gorgeous award winning roses. Gardens designed in French, Japanese, and English styles. And large open spaces - perfect for a picnic greet you inside this haven. I had seen so many beautiful photos here and I couldn't wait to capture some of my own. Green houses have always been a love of mine because they represent a liminal space allowing flowers to grow in spaces and times when they would normally die.

During the Edo Period, Shinjuku Gyoen served as the home of the feudal lord of Tokyo. In 1903 it was transfered to the Imperial Family, but it wasn't until 1949 that it was opened as a public park after almost being destroyed during World War II. World War II always seemed so far away when I learned about it in school. However, living in Tokyo has made me realize the scars countries have beared from the brutal conflict and how much important cultural history was almost lost.

After wandering around Shinjuku Gyoen Sejan and I headed towards Meiji Shrine. If I had been by myself I would have walked back home after enjoying a delicious bowl of ramen, however, Sejan was on a mission and so we hoped on the train and headed to our next destination.

Now, I didn't mean to save the shrine dedicated to the father of modern Japan for when Sejan arrived. I actually tried to explore Meiji shrine my third week but I got lost in Yoyogi Park. I assumed that since the two shared grounds that you could walk from one to the other. However, after many attempts- I gave up. On my way out of Yoyogi I happened upon a group of rockabillies and it was then that I realized that Yoyogi and Meiji have different entrances.

The shrine itself was completed in 1920, eight years after Emperor Meiji had passed. Interestingly enough he took the throne when he was only 15 years old. The grounds start with a large wooden gate and a wide road. The road eventually brings you to the sake barrels that you see above. These are donated every year as an offering. As you continue down the wooded trail the sounds and sights of Tokyo fall away and you forget that you are in a city.

Deep in the forrest sits the Meiji Shrine which was unfortunately under renovations in the ramp up to the 2020 Olympics. So I didn't get any good photos of the shrine itself but I loved wandering around all the altars and cleansing stations. Despite my exhaustion I was happy to be sharing my time in Tokyo with someone that I've known for so long.

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Tokyo/Imperial Palace

August 26, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

My time in Seoul allowed me to reconnect with myself. I turned over rocks and explored deep in the soil of my subconscious and I realized something new. I don't travel to see new and interesting things, to explore the unexplored. For me travel is about building a deeper connection with myself and with the people I meet along the way. This explains my difficult first month in Tokyo. I have no problem going places by myself, but I'm going there because I want to meet new people. Tokyo became a source of joy for me after I built a community. And after my time in Fukuoka my love of Tokyo was growing even stronger because one of my best friends from college was coming to visit me.

I had been saving many places that I wanted to see in Tokyo for Sejan's arrival. High among the list was the Imperial Palace. The palace sits on the grounds of the old Edo Castle. Before Tokyo became the capital, the honors go to Kyoto. It wasn't until 1868 that the emperor even moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. The grounds are encloused in a huge moat with different areas inside like the palace grounds where the royal family lives as well as numerous gardens.

The sun greeted us intensely as we made our way from the train platform up to the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. I heard this place is gorgeous during cherry blossom season. The land was well manicured and there was even an area that contained one tree for each of the 47 prefectures of Japan.

You can also learn about the history of the grounds themselves and how their use has evolved overtime. The photo above is from inside of a guard house. After making our way around the gardens we attempted to explore the royal palace itself. I should have known something was up because there is no way to get to the palace from the garden so we walked around the moat that enshrines the totality of the grounds. The moat was really pretty and the grass sweeping down to the water made for a good picture as the city looms in the background.

There were no signs listing which way was the fastest route to the Palace so I pulled up Google Maps and found the closest bridge from the street across the moat. Sejan and I began walking there, however when we arrived the gate was closed so we walk to the next bridge. That gate was closed as well so we continued walking around the perimeter of the moat. By the time we got to the main gate we had essentially walked 5 kilometers. Unfortunately, we were not rewarded for our efforts because you can only explore the palace grounds on specific days of the year and through tours. This is why you should always do your research.

Tired and hungry we wandered away to nearby Ginza and found this cute hawaiian themed restaurant where I ordered a tuna salad that was amazing!

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Fashion Meditation IV

June 14, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

By now I'm used to the constant stares. The consumption of my body in Tokyo is a mix of laughter, astonishment, and jealousy. My ideal expression of a transgender non-conforming identity is a mix of what would be read as masculine and feminine. However, recently I have been leaning more towards the femme.

People tell me I look like a referee in this dress, from Eloquii, and in my head, I'm calling fouls on gender normativity. The long braids bring out the feminine features of my face while the facial hair provides a sharp contrast. These flowers are directly next to a busy traffic intersection and many drivers were forced to do a double take as they drove by.

I think my desire to prevent a feminine identity stems from the fact that this is all so new to me. I embraced my genderqueer identity last year and only in the last couple months have I been able to find femme affirming clothing that fits me.

Even though I've found a couple brands I still have major holes in my closet, like only owning one skirt. I was forced to wear jeans because searching for the perfect denim skirt is one of the hardest things in the world. This scarf, from the British brand Blazon, is so colorful that it needs something neutral to weigh it down. It occupies the position as my second favorite scarf in my wardrobe. The light blue cotton button up from Asos keeps the look clean.

What surprised me was that even with such a masculine look, I still got stares on the train. Don't forget to subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive.

Shimokitazawa

June 12, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

Shimokitazawa, or Shimokita for short, has been described as what Tokyo would look like if hipsters ran the city. From boutique clothing stalls, quaint coffee shops, and amazing vintage finds this is not an area you want to miss.

Shimokita consists of tiny streets packed with stores selling a combination of new and vintage pieces. If you are in search of something unique then I would suggest you spend a couple hours getting lost among the clothes hangers. At Tabatha you can find Supreme like merchandise that reps the neighborhood of Shimokita with cute hats and jackets.

Some of the strangest things I saw in Tokyo was in this small neighborhood. I was walking down the street and noticed this mannequin and I had to step in to get a closer look.

One of the best stores I stumbled across was Far East Leather, founded in 1979. The store carries handmade wallets and purses.

What stood out to me most was the abundance of graffiti that could be found in Shimokita. I love to see different cities and cultures take on the art form and I was always saddened by its abcense in Tokyo. For a slice of the weird and quirky visit Shimokitazawa.

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Craft Sake Week

May 5, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

If you are in Tokyo for the cherry blossoms in early April, I highly suggest checking out Craft Sake Week. For a week and a half, they highlight 10 different breweries each day. I really wanted to attend the day celebrating Female Sake Brewers but I ended up attending the day where they hosted the ten best Sake breweries according to a sake rating app called Sakenomy. The drinks did not dissapoint.

To start, 3,500 Yen gets you six chips that you exchange for food and drink at any of the vendors. The sake prices ranges from 1-3 chips depending on how much the sake rice was polished before brewing. The bottles with only one chip were Junmaishu which means that 30% of the rice used for milling was polished away. Two chip sake was Ginjoshu meaning 40% of the rice was polished away and sake worth 3 chips was Daiginjoshu meaning 50% was polished away. You must have the same question I did: what does milling away the rice do for the sake? The alcohol in sake comes from fermenting the sugar. Whereas in wine made from grapes the sugar naturally occurs in the fruit, the sugar in sake comes from the starch from the inner kernel of the rice. Therefore polishing the rice is seen as removing the "impurities" or the outer shell that would take away from the pure flavor of the rice.

I started off trying all the Junmaishu sake's from the different breweries. The flavors ranged from tart to sweet. I slowly moved my up the chip later. I have to say I prefer the taste the Ginjoshu sakes' the best. They had the perfect balance with a light delicate flavor.

Craft Sake Week also had little games one could play in between their sake tastings.

Craft Sake Week is a great way to get a taste of the different varieties and types of Sake that Japan has to offer. I was excited to broaden my knowledge of sake to something outside of sake bombs.

Tsukiji Fish Market

April 30, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The first time I ever had sushi was in a banquet hall during my teenage years. While the date and location are fuzzy the memories that are the strongest from that night was being tricked into eating wasabi and disliking sushi. I knew that for my upcoming travel to Japan I needed to get over my dislike of sushi. While in LA I made it my mission to get conquer my aversion. After a couple rolls and sake bombs I finally started to get the hang of the sushi life. However nothing prepared me for eating sushi in Tokyo.

One of the best and most famous places to eat sushi in Tokyo is at the Tsukiji Fish Market. The market itself has been operating in this location since it was relocated after an earthquake in 1923. The market is separated into inner and outer sections. The famous fish auction takes place at the inner market and has very limited seating that requires you to arrive around 4 am, before the trains open, in order to snag a seat.

For those who just want to eat sushi breakfast feel free to show up around 9 or 10 and the outer market will be full of fresh fish and tourists meandering its tiny alleys. The first thing I realized when eating sushi in Tokyo is the absence of maki, which is the sushi rolls we are so accustomed to in the states. While they definitely are available the most common form of sushi you find is nigri, which is fish placed on top of sushi rice. I found that with nigri the flavor and texture of the fish really shine through.

Now don't be tempted by the long lines of some of the more famous sushi shops in Tsukiji. Every restaurant in the outer market gets its fish at the same time from the inner market so quality doesn't vary. I advise wandering the markets looking our for signs like this:

I found that the cheapest restaurants were in the back of the outer market near the shrine. Some places near the front charged more money for the exact same products in the back so evaluate carefully. After I found my location I ordered three different kinds of tuna over rice.

One of the best breakfasts I've ever had.

I wouldn't order too much because there's so much more to eat in this market than sushi. I suggest starting off with sushi and then finishing off your breakfast with one of these.

After getting your fill, wander around the market and see all the cool shops and stores. I found a wine bar tucked into the back section of the market along with stalls selling dried fish and strawberries and anything else you could want.

As I was exploring the market I found a Shinto shrine hidden in the back. It's a great place to sit down and take a rest away from all the frenzied tourists in the outer market. The Namiyoke Inari Shrine was built in 1657 and its name means "protection from waves."

Exploring the market and eating some of the freshest fish was a great way to start my morning. A stop here is a must for anyone visiting this amazing city.

Fashion Meditation III

April 20, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

When I told people that Tokyo was the first stop on my international travels everyone asked me why? The question hidden inside those three letters was: Why would a black person go to Tokyo a place where there are no other black people? Which in all honestly is a fair question. Anti blackness is global and I knew that as a traveler the color of my skin would make me stand out in ways white people typically never have to worry about.

Now I'll be honest, before I came to Tokyo I did read a lot about what being black in Asia as a whole and Japan specifically would be like- Virgo' always do their research. The results were mixed some said that it wasn't an issue in big cities but going to more rural areas might prove difficult. Other people reflected that even in big cities they faced open hostility. What I knew for sure was that I wasn't just going to Tokyo as a black person but as a black trans person. While my blackness might make me stand out my gender non-conforming presentation would be a beacon.

I don't get stared at anymore in Tokyo from adults then I do in DC or New York . Now the group of people who are quite often surprised to see me are children under the age of 10. Which makes sense because as a homogenous culture where less than 1% of the total population is foreign they don't see a lot of difference

For those who've been following me on Instagram, link in the top right, you've noticed that I got some new hair right before I left for Tokyo. This has been my second trial with box braids and honestly so much better than the first time. My braids are much smaller this time so they don't weigh me down as much and I learned that pre-soaking your hair in an Apple Cider Vinegar solution takes off this film that makes your scalp itch. All but two Japanese people have touched my hair without permission. Otherwise people have been really respectful about asking first.

Now in the outfit above, which is my first trial at self-portraiture using my tripod, I wore my vintage Chanel jacket with a simple cotton shirt from ASOS and my favorite hat by this DC brand called Rent is Due. Sadly my hat and the braids didn't mix so I lost the hat one night while partying.

I wore this outfit to Senso-ji Temple. I actually wandered the ground with a suitcase of 3 different outfits to change into but the area was so crowded that this was the only good spot I found to set up my tripod. Now the skirt is from my favorite plus size brand Eloquii. I really suggest checking them out. I copped the Kaya Midi Skirt in lemon shine. Normally I prefer my skirts and dresses to fall above the knee because it elongates my frame but this midi skirt looked so good on me I couldn't send it back. The top is a shirt from Asos in this gorgeous cosmic geometric pattern. You really can't see the pattern in this photo because the sun was so bright but the two look amazing together. The flats are vintage from a thrift store in Chicago. The lip is from this black owned cosmetics brand called Coloured Raine and the color is Heart of Stone.

I really like how these first to attempts at portrait photography turned out. Remember to subscribe below so you never miss another chapter in the Archives of a DivaNun!

Senso-ji Temple

April 11, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

Incense smoke wafts out of the jokoro and over your body in a ritual act that’s been performed at the temple for the last four hundred years. The jokoro sits directly in front of the main hall of the Senso-ji Temple and is a place for you to purify your body before entering the sacred ground completed in 628- the oldest in Tokyo. The temple is dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of mercy.

Coming to Japan was an act of purification I didn’t know I needed. Far away from all of my comforts, there was nothing left for me to hide behind. And in that stillness, I grew more connected to my passion and what drew me to travel in the first place even though I had to cry to get there.

The first thing that greets you on your way towards the temple is the Kaminarimon, the Thunder Gate. A great red lantern with a dragon carved on the bottom hangs in between to statues of the gods of Thunder and Wind. I was surprised to learn that the statues present are restorations of the original.

Past the first gate is a market that has existed almost as long as the temple itself with some of the stalls operated by the same family for over 100 years. The street crowded and full of sweets, gifts, and paraphernalia is called Nakamise-Dori.

Towards the end lies the second gate the Hozomon which again was destroyed twice since it was built in 942.

The temple and the Nakamise-Dori aren't the only things to enjoy while exploring this site of rich history.

There are so many additional shrines and gardens and statues that dot the area. There are shrines dedicated to the people who built the temple. Statues that remember the service of important women from Japanese history.

Once you are off the main strip you get to enjoy the more quiet side of this Buddhist temple. There's a shaded area off to the left that I sat at while eating a Japanese sweet bread filled with ice cream. I thought about how the temple and its many parts have been destroyed so many times the most damaging being the air raids during WWII. But in the spirit of rebirth and peace, they were crafted anew. I hope that everyone who comes to this shrine dedicated to mercy leaves with compassion and forgiveness in their hearts, the same way I did.

I always say as long as you learn from your experiences then you should never regret them. I learned so much in my sadness that I rediscovered a happiness I haven't felt in years. I can't wait to continue to share the happy memories I'm making here in Tokyo!

The Hozomon Gate  and jokoro as seen from the temple. — The Hozomon Gate and jokoro as seen from the temple.

Week 1 in Tokyo

March 29, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

I woke up in Tokyo but my body still thought I was on the east coast. After an 18 hour flight, numerous time zone changes, and almost missing my connection in Beijing I had finally arrived in the city of my dreams minus one of my checked bags.

My first night was spent in a hotel because the hostel I was staying in ended check in after my flight landed. The only thing open at midnight after I navigated the sprawling Japanese railway system was 7/11 though I didn't care because I was hungry for something other then tiny airport meals. I was quite surprised by how much better the quality of food was in Tokyo verses the states.

After a brief nights sleep I went to go check into my hostel. There is so much to see in Tokyo and even during the brief walk I was inundated with sights and smells. Every inch of this city is packed with something visually interesting.

The hostel I checked into was the Irori Hostel and Kitchen located in Nihonbashi a little west of Chiyoda. Irori is named after the traditional Japanese fireplace hidden in the tables that dot the entrance. I choose this because it seemed to represent a more authentic introduction to Japan. The staff was so nice and helpful with all my questions. Irori has two lounges and a kitchen you can prepare your own meals, they even cook a traditional Japanese breakfast if you order one the night before. The bunk beds were comfortable and the most privacy I've ever had while in a shared hostel. Next time you go to Tokyo I highly suggest you stay there.

My first taste of Japanese food was some miso soup and some delicious fried chicken at Torigen a quick walk from Irori. The texture of the fried chicken was lighter than the southern recipes I’m used to with a much more subtle flavor which allowed the taste of the chicken to really shine.

I'll admit I was extremely intimidated by the Tokyo railway system of which there are 158 lines owned by 58 different companies. Thankfully the Pasmo card which you can get upon arrival at the airport allows you to hop between them as if they are all owned by the same. Once you ride it once it becomes a much more simple beast especially since there are many signs and announcements made in English.

What you do need to be careful about is the final train. Tokyo's expansive network of trains suspend service around midnight depending on where you are in the city. Unlike DC, where the train system flushes itself out, Tokyo's transit will just stop at whatever station and force you to get out. You would think that taxi's and uber's would rush to fill in that market but no. Taxi's can be as costly as $100 for a distance that would only be $15-20 in DC. So people stay out in Tokyo till 5am.

I explored a lot in my first week, and my future blog posts will all be dedicated to one of the 23 wards. Two things made my first week very hard. The first was that I arrived in Tokyo for 3 months but only had accommodation for the first week. I trusted in the universe that I would find a place and while it all worked out through Tokyo Room Finder and I now live in Shinjuku I'll tell you that Tokyo did not make it easy. For one, there isn't really a culture of shared living in your 20's and 30's that exists in so much of the United States. If you want a communal living environment I suggest checking out Borderless House.

The second thing that made my first week difficult was that I was really lonely. The research said Japan is a difficult country to make friends in. I considered myself the kind of person who can and has traveled places by myself. But when it actually hit me as I walked down the streets of Roppongi that I was really by myself- I couldn't help but cry. I let the feeling wash over me fully because it's something that everyone who travels solo feels. Tokyo is one of the hardest beasts to master and as my first destination I was taking on quite a challenge. Almost every other place I travel too should be much easier. After the tears dried I felt more certain than ever that I was where I was supposed to be. I was taking the time to focus on my art and live outside my comfort zone in a city I always dreamed of living. I came to Tokyo to grow and flourish is what I will do here.

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