Divanun Guide/ Tokyo

April 9, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

This DivaNun Guide is a one pager of everything to do, see, and eat in Tokyo.

Historical

Imperial Palace
- The site of a beautiful garden and the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan
Senso-ji Temple
- An ancient Buddhist temple located in Asakusa, Tokyo
Meiji Shrine
- The Shinto shrine that is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken

Cultural

Kanda Matsuri
- One of the 3 great Shinto festivals in Tokyo
Yoyogi Park
- A nice large outdoor space to sit and enjoy some nice weather. It is not connected to Meiji shrine they have different entrances.
Museums
- Tokyo National Museum
- Mori Art Museum
- The National Art Center Tokyo
Shinjuku Gyoen National Park
- A large park and garden located in Shinjuku that has phenomenal landscaping and a green house. Great for photo shoots and an extensive rose garden
Harajuku
- A neighborhood south of Shinjuku with great fashion and food
- be sure
Ni-Chome
- The gay district of Tokyo located in Shinjuku
Craft Sake Week
- A great even where you can sample different types of sake from Japan. Happens in the spring in Roppongi
Shimokitazawa
- Tokyo's answer to Brooklyn. A cool hip neighborhood filled with thrift stores and cute little shops
Golden Gai
- A series of narrow alleys filled with bars that can only fit 5-8 people at a time. I visited a couple of these and I found them to be extremely expensive and super touristy. Most of the bars charge an entrance fee and the drinks were expensive. I would suggest getting a bottle of your choice from 7/11 and then wandering these streets.
Piss Alley
- A narrow side street next to the bustling Shinjuku metro station which has a series of small bars, yakitori grills, and food stalls. I walked down this street a bunch of times and the smell of food is so delicious but I never actually ate at any of the stalls. I would definitely suggest coming here to get a quick bite.
Meguro River
- During Cherry Blossom Season the Meguro river which is lined with this pale pink blossoms becomes a huge outdoor market with stalls selling food and alcohol as you wander and enjoy the natural beauty
Karaoke
- There are many places scattered across this city where you can sing popular songs with your friends in private rooms. The only place I went to where you sang karaoke in public was a bar in Ni-Chome. They are open all night so it's a great place to go before the train comes in the morning

Food

With the most restaurants of any city you can literally eat anywhere and have a world class dining experience but here are some of my favorite spots
Tsukiji Food Market: There are some of the more famous shops here for sushi but in my opinion they are over priced and you can get the exact same fish from a shop a little deeper in the market. Just wander around and check prices. There's also a stall selling snow crab buns that are absolutely divine.
Ramen
- Asuka: In Shibuya serves a special tan-tan ramen thats hard to find. It is a sesame flavored ramen, very spicy, and it topped with fried pork
- Hayashi: In Shibuya very delicious
- Kikanbo Ramen: Has some of the best spicy miso ramen in Tokyo
- There's more but I made the mistake of not saving a number of restaraunts to my google maps.
Gyoza Restaruant in Ni-Chome: On the weekends there's a late night gyoza places that slings some of the most delicious morsels of heaven I had. The name is in Chinese so its impossible to say but the location is across the street from the Apa hotel.
Tsurutontan Shinjuku: it's a chain and a little pricey but one of the best bowls of Udon I had in my life
Coco Ichibanya: Yes this place is a chain but it has such a reliably spicy pork curry that my heart will forever sing.

Miscellaneous

Irori Hostel
Night Life: Going out in Tokyo is all about making the last train home or staying up until the first train in the morning. Any bar or club you're in will stay open after the last train leaves so don't fear what you'll do inbetween.
- FancyHim: a queer underground dance night hosted in Ni-chome https://www.facebook.com/fancyhimtokyo/
- Slideluck Tokyo: An event where food meets art and you can meet cool local artists http://slideluck.com/city/tokyo/
- Aiiro Cafe: Where the gays congregate as the night begins. They have a beer blast HH that always brings a crowd
- Eagle Tokyo: This cute establishment has a very long bar and is popular with the bears. I suggest ordering a double whiskey highball you won't regret it
- Dragon: The top 40 music dancing destination. Not a personal fav of mine but they are a staple on the weekends.
- Trump Room: By far my fav venue in Tokyo. This is located in Shibuya and its a hassle to get to but the inside is filled with gold-plated tables and mirrors with super cool Dj's spinning until the early hours of the morning.
Facebook Groups
- Tokyo Expat Network: a place where I learned the most about renting an apartment and other information about settling into Japan
- Fruits in Suits Tokyo: a LGBT buisness related facebook group great for networking and meeting other people
- Couch Surfing Tokyo: Host weekly meetups and great for expanding your social circle.

Travel/ Navigation

In Tokyo
- The Tokyo subway system while sprawling and large is actually not that hard to navigate. Its like New York its much scarier then it looks. There are signs in english in most places and google maps will be so helpful for navigating your way around the city. The trains do not run after midnight so make sure you want to stay out all night. Thankfully you can buy alcohol at 7/11 or any convenience store all night long
- Ubers and taxis are super expensive so I suggest avoiding them at all costs like the price is wild no one is trying to pay that.
From Tokyo
- There are night buses that I took to Kyoto.
- You can find cheap flights on budget airlines like Peach
- BEFORE YOU ARRIVE you can apply for a discounted bullet train rail pass in 1-3 week incrememnts. I didn't do this but there's more information here

Next Visit

Get some custom clothes made at Y. & Sons
More Day Trips
- Chiba
- Hakone
See Mt Fuji
Eat Ramen

Sayonara Japan

April 5, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

The quiet alleyway that housed my bedroom in Shinjuku had more vending machines then it had corners to put them on. It was one of those quirks that could only occur in Japan. Another quirk was how they listed the room sizes online by tatami mats. What size was a tatami mat? I had no idea what a room that was "6 tatami mats" in size would look like. Would three suitcases of clothes fit in 6 tatami mats? I didn't have that cultural reference but I checked out the room anyway. It was big enough for a bed, desk, and couch as well as all my clothes, I spent 3 months in that room as birds chirped and rain fell, I couldn't believe so much time had passed. As I was packing up to leave I grabbed my red travel journal and flipped to the first entry after I landed. Two questions jumped off the page "What am I going to find in Japan?" and "What kind of person would I be upon leaving?" I knew even then that coming to Japan was more than just eating ramen and exploring cultural sites and partying, it was also about exploring who I was and what I could become.

While I was packing Sejan went on a morning walk around my neighborhood. Would Sejan notice the multitude of vending machines or the turtle mural above the car wash? Some details of the world only reveal themselves after you walk the same road multiple times. Like how different the street smells when the roasted sweet potatoes are outside the supermarket in the evenings. These are details the casual observer would ignore, details that aren't adventurous or instagrammable. But what I didn't realize until I arrived was that the pedestrian and average plays a big part in long-term travel.

Exploring bamboo forests, getting lost in Yoyogi park, discovering cool thrift stores stand tall in the imagination but they make up such a small part of long-term travel. In truth, the "everyday reality" of travel is much more mundane but it is in those moments when you have to face yourself and whatever baggage you're carrying. For me, it was the feelings of loneliness and insecurity. I interrogated the mythologies I tell myself: Am I really outgoing? Am I really a good photographer? Can I really travel the world by myself? With nothing to distract me, I had to face them head-on. No more running away. I was afraid that If I answered them my insecurities would be true and I would have to change what I dreamed about. But when I looked back at what I had accomplished I realized I had so much power and strength. I pushed through and created art with local artists that inspired me. I fostered a community of friends that I could rely on for strength and support. I survived the sadness, the insecurity, the days I didn't want to leave my room to have an amazing time. Turns out that by running away from these questions I was denying myself the truth of how amazing and talented I was.

The night before I left Tokyo I sat surrounded by friends both new and old at the bar of a tiny ramen restaurant in Shibuya. I loved ramen before I came but I developed a whole new appreciation for the art form after slurping countless bowls. I had left 3 months prior unsure of what would become of me. And in some ways, I'm still unsure. What I did foster was a deeper connection with my strengths and weaknesses. Turns out life is like making a bowl of ramen it's going to take a lifetime of repetition to make the perfect bowl. Japan was the hardest country to start my travels- the equivalent of skiing down a black diamond your first time on the slopes. As much as I hoped, knowing that didn't make it any easier. I learned to be kind to myself especially since Japan was just the first stop of many. It wasn't going to be perfect first time on the mountain. I can't let my expectations get in the way of my results. My travels around the world will be just as much about creating art and meeting new people as it is about healing.

So Sayonara Japan, thank you for giving me space to fail and grow and cry and laugh and discover. Subscribe below so you never miss an addition to the Archive.

Artist Collaboration Nozomi Teranishi

April 2, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

One of my big dreams about my time in Japan was the ability to work with a Japanese artist. I scoured the internet and used every trick in boolean logic to find upcoming talent that would be interested in working with me. After I had all but given up, when in walks Nozomi Teranishi, an amazing photographer and visual artist from Fukushima, Japan. Their photography series The Regeneration of Complex Societies, about their experience of the 2011 earthquake caught my attention and wouldn't let go- see the photo series on their website.

We met up for drinks and spend the rest of the evening having a photoshoot. I was curious how I would look behind someone else's lens. The photo's we took of each other that evening was so much fun and it makes me want to continue collaboration with other artists.

The photos Nozomi took of me.

It's always interesting working with other photographers and seeing how their creative eye works and what stands out to them versus myself.

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Kanda Matsuri

March 29, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

I came to Tokyo without knowing anyone and yet as I hugged Alana and Laura I knew that I was saying goodbye to lifelong friends. This travel was all about trusting in the universe and as they made their way to the bus station I knew that the universe will provide me with the people I'm meant to meet on my journey. I had one final bite of an amazingly delcious matcha cheesecake before Sejan, and I went off to one of the biggest festivals in Tokyo- Kanda Matsuri.

The Kanda Myojin Shrine, which is the focal point for the festivities enshrines three different dieties: Daikokuten, Ebisu, and Taira Masakado. The festival started during the 17th century as a way of honoring the prosperity of the Tokugawa Shogun. Portable shrines called, mikoshi, are paraded from their neighborhood of origin to the Kanda Myojin for a blessing before heading back.

The Mikoshi is carried by teams dressed in jackers that symbolize their neighborhood. Like most things in Japan, the process was extremely organized despite the sheer magnitude of the event. One by one the teams led by a leader would fill the street with their colorful jackets and their brightly adorned mikoshi chanting loudly. The mikoshi would bob up and down the entire team working in unison. After watching a couple of neighborhoods stream by we dashed across the street to get a closer look inside the temple.

The smell of grilled squid and takoyaki filled my nostrils and the sound of a flute like instrument paired with drums competed against the loud chants for my attention. No longer in the open air of the street, the energy rebounded off the walls and vibrated in my bones. We followed behind a group as they made their way into the center of the shrine. A large man appeared and did some kind of prayer as the people who carried the mikoshi took a rest. Once the short ceremony was over and the revelers returned to their neighborhoods a brief calm took over the floor. However, shortly after they left I could hear the sharp claps of the wood blocks as another team from a different neighborhood came to take part in this ceremony. A smile broke across my face, thankful for my ability to experience different traditions and to share this with one of my oldest friends.

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Archive of Softness II

March 26, 2018 Ceraun Loggins

I was introduced to Iniko an extremely talented artist by a mutual online friend. We connected over facebook messenger but didn't end up meeting for the shoot until the last 2 weeks of my time in Tokyo due to both of our busy schedules. I had so much fun shooting them, we got to talk about our mutual passions of performing arts, acting and music while exploring Hinokicho Park. I had always walked by and through this park on my way to dinner parties but I had never taken the time to truly explore this tiny slice of nature in the middle of Roppongi.

One of the things Iniko and I talked about was what intrigued them about the project. They said, "For most of my life I've navigated as a black femme and only recently realized that I am genderfluid. I wanted to be able to play with that fluidity in this shoot. Being ambiguous to people has always been something I love." I was so happy to hear that because I love using fashion and my body to play with gender. And I loved the outfit that Iniko wore because it played with different binaries like child/adult, feminine/masculine.

When asked about the portrayal of blackness in Japan Iniko stated, "Blackness in Tokyo is still thought of as a style, I think. There are shops dedicated to looking ghetto and Ive seen plenty of Japanese people with cornrows and tanned skin. However, that perception is slowly but surely changing." My eyes widened, thankfully I never saw any of the stores that sell ghetto chic because I would have had some words about the commodification of blackness in Japan. But I have seen multiple Japanese people treat my friends and I like our hair or our bodies were open for consumption. I'm happy they think the perception is slowly changing but with black face still happening in Japan on television they have a long way to go.

Check out Iniko's music on Spotify here.

See other photos from the series.

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Fashion Meditation VI

September 9, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

What do you do when the gaps between expectation and reality are a chasm too wide to cross? The nights I spent drinking under the red Torii gate at Aiiro Cafe and dancing at Dragon Man were a long way away from how I envisioned spending my nights in Tokyo.

I felt trapped by how I wasn't living up to my expectations and slightly resentful at Tokyo for not being the dream land I wanted it to be. Needed it to be. After skyping with friends I realized its foolish to blame the reality of Tokyo for not living up to a fantasy world built over broken glass.

Like arriving at the Imperial Palace with Sejan wearing my yellow Eloquii skirt, only to find that the grounds aren't open to the public- coming to Tokyo didn't work out like I planned. I had to reteach myself that I can't control what happens all the time, but I can control my response.

My early annoyance at the lack of options in Ni-chome, the gay district in Tokyo, was replaced by all the fun my friends and I had just by sitting outside a convenience store while drinking. The reality of the amazing friendships that I had created while wondering the thin streets of Ni-chome was way better then the expectation.

I was surprised by how upset I got when Tokyo didn't meet my expectations. I always painted this experience as the beginning of the rest of my life. I was feeling like a fraud. But I was putting too much pressure on myself. It was hard for me to live in the moment because I was so focused on how Tokyo would fit into the pantheon of my life experiences.

However as I introduced Sejan to my Tokyo family I realized how much I had accomplished personally. I came to a city where I knew no one and made friends in different communities. Sometimes we are so quick to find fault in ourself that we discount all the amazing things we've done. Tokyo taught me to be kinder to myself and that I can accomplish more than I know.

Posing with the Cacti in Shinjuku Gyoen Green House

In Tokyo I was challenged with the task of picking up the fragments of my dreams and piecing them back together to form my new reality. When it comes to expectation versus reality I've realized that expectation can be an enemy to your success.

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Shinjuku Gyoen & Meiji Shrine

September 4, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

My legs were sore, tiny bolts of electricity danced through my calves with every step I took. The pedometer in my iPhone calculated had just hit 9 miles today almost on par with the 10 I walked yesterday. The line graph since Sejan's arrival jutted high like a mountain, towering above the days spent at home. I was spending my time in Tokyo more like a vacation and less like a natural part of my everyday life.

When you travel with someone you have to make sure that you have similar travel styles. Good friends do not always make good travel partners. On vacation Sejan moves at a lightning pace, routinely walking a mile in the mornings before I had even woken up. Meanwhile, I like to slow down, stretch out the hours until I melt into the local vibrations. Despite the difference in our speeds Sejan and I made great travel buddies because we care a lot about good food, taking amazing pictures, and being efficient.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is an oasis in the middle of hectic, chaotic, and busy Shinjuku. Rows of gorgeous award winning roses. Gardens designed in French, Japanese, and English styles. And large open spaces - perfect for a picnic greet you inside this haven. I had seen so many beautiful photos here and I couldn't wait to capture some of my own. Green houses have always been a love of mine because they represent a liminal space allowing flowers to grow in spaces and times when they would normally die.

During the Edo Period, Shinjuku Gyoen served as the home of the feudal lord of Tokyo. In 1903 it was transfered to the Imperial Family, but it wasn't until 1949 that it was opened as a public park after almost being destroyed during World War II. World War II always seemed so far away when I learned about it in school. However, living in Tokyo has made me realize the scars countries have beared from the brutal conflict and how much important cultural history was almost lost.

After wandering around Shinjuku Gyoen Sejan and I headed towards Meiji Shrine. If I had been by myself I would have walked back home after enjoying a delicious bowl of ramen, however, Sejan was on a mission and so we hoped on the train and headed to our next destination.

Now, I didn't mean to save the shrine dedicated to the father of modern Japan for when Sejan arrived. I actually tried to explore Meiji shrine my third week but I got lost in Yoyogi Park. I assumed that since the two shared grounds that you could walk from one to the other. However, after many attempts- I gave up. On my way out of Yoyogi I happened upon a group of rockabillies and it was then that I realized that Yoyogi and Meiji have different entrances.

The shrine itself was completed in 1920, eight years after Emperor Meiji had passed. Interestingly enough he took the throne when he was only 15 years old. The grounds start with a large wooden gate and a wide road. The road eventually brings you to the sake barrels that you see above. These are donated every year as an offering. As you continue down the wooded trail the sounds and sights of Tokyo fall away and you forget that you are in a city.

Deep in the forrest sits the Meiji Shrine which was unfortunately under renovations in the ramp up to the 2020 Olympics. So I didn't get any good photos of the shrine itself but I loved wandering around all the altars and cleansing stations. Despite my exhaustion I was happy to be sharing my time in Tokyo with someone that I've known for so long.

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Tokyo/Imperial Palace

August 26, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

My time in Seoul allowed me to reconnect with myself. I turned over rocks and explored deep in the soil of my subconscious and I realized something new. I don't travel to see new and interesting things, to explore the unexplored. For me travel is about building a deeper connection with myself and with the people I meet along the way. This explains my difficult first month in Tokyo. I have no problem going places by myself, but I'm going there because I want to meet new people. Tokyo became a source of joy for me after I built a community. And after my time in Fukuoka my love of Tokyo was growing even stronger because one of my best friends from college was coming to visit me.

I had been saving many places that I wanted to see in Tokyo for Sejan's arrival. High among the list was the Imperial Palace. The palace sits on the grounds of the old Edo Castle. Before Tokyo became the capital, the honors go to Kyoto. It wasn't until 1868 that the emperor even moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. The grounds are encloused in a huge moat with different areas inside like the palace grounds where the royal family lives as well as numerous gardens.

The sun greeted us intensely as we made our way from the train platform up to the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. I heard this place is gorgeous during cherry blossom season. The land was well manicured and there was even an area that contained one tree for each of the 47 prefectures of Japan.

You can also learn about the history of the grounds themselves and how their use has evolved overtime. The photo above is from inside of a guard house. After making our way around the gardens we attempted to explore the royal palace itself. I should have known something was up because there is no way to get to the palace from the garden so we walked around the moat that enshrines the totality of the grounds. The moat was really pretty and the grass sweeping down to the water made for a good picture as the city looms in the background.

There were no signs listing which way was the fastest route to the Palace so I pulled up Google Maps and found the closest bridge from the street across the moat. Sejan and I began walking there, however when we arrived the gate was closed so we walk to the next bridge. That gate was closed as well so we continued walking around the perimeter of the moat. By the time we got to the main gate we had essentially walked 5 kilometers. Unfortunately, we were not rewarded for our efforts because you can only explore the palace grounds on specific days of the year and through tours. This is why you should always do your research.

Tired and hungry we wandered away to nearby Ginza and found this cute hawaiian themed restaurant where I ordered a tuna salad that was amazing!

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Busan

June 16, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

After spending a month and a half in Tokyo I was ready for a change in scenery. I've grown used to the flow of the city: waiting for trains, walking home, deciphering kanji on the menus of ramen restaurants. Living in Tokyo a part of my routine; one of the hardest and most life-changing routines I've had to develop but routine none the less.

The best way to appreciate the space you live in daily is to take a break from it. When DC became too monotonous I would take a trip to NYC to clear my head. Now that I'm in Tokyo a quick jaunt to South Korea is how I'll re-ground myself.

Originally my goal was to travel to Thailand, but after discovering how hot it becomes in April I decided that the temperate climate of South Korea would be better for my aesthetic. Instead of flying from Tokyo to Seoul I decided to take the ferry from Fukuoka to Busan instead. This way I could squeeze two extra cities into my trip.

Busan is the second largest city in South Korea and is thought of as Korea's San Francisco. While there the city was building frantically as its the home of the 2030 World Expo.

The first thing I noticed in Busan and later Seoul is the sheer number of sculptures I have never seen so many statues and sculptures around a city as I have while traveling through South Korea and I'm from DC.

I felt awkward navigating around this foreign culture and new language. But at the same time, I felt alive. Nowhere did this contradiction feel more literal then inside a restaurant. The first picture above is the restaurant I ate after checking into my hostel. The first time I saw the prices on the menu I audibly gasped before I realized that the currency was Won instead of Yen. For comparison, one thousand yen is ten dollars whereas, ten thousand won is 8 dollars. I ate this thick pork bone soup that was popular in the south along with the delicious side dishes called banchan.

The next day before I caught my bus I wondered the downtown area and found another restaurant. I ordered a soup and some dumplings. The soup was bright red with chunks of meat and vegetables. I realized after gulping down half the soup that it was so red not because it was seasoned with Kim chi but because it was deep and intensely spicy. The number one thing I missed in Japan was spicy food and while Japan was lacking the Koreans live for spicy food. I just wish I had been prepared because I started sweating so much that the lady who owned the shop was seriously concerned about me.

The timing of this trip was perfect because, as I sat on the ferry about to leave Japan, I realized I had started to feel at home in Tokyo. After feeling so sad and confused my first few weeks I wasn't sure I would come to love Tokyo. However, as the ferry zipped me across the Sea of Japan all I could think about was how I couldn't wait to return.

Busan is a city rich with history, art, and culture. I definitely need to come back and explore more of the city. But with only 24 hours between when the ferry dropped me off at the harbor and a bus would whisk me away to Seoul, I could really only explore the downtown business district.

The view from my bus to Seoul. Make sure you subscribe so you don't miss my adventures in Seoul and all my additions to the archive.

Shimokitazawa

June 12, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

Shimokitazawa, or Shimokita for short, has been described as what Tokyo would look like if hipsters ran the city. From boutique clothing stalls, quaint coffee shops, and amazing vintage finds this is not an area you want to miss.

Shimokita consists of tiny streets packed with stores selling a combination of new and vintage pieces. If you are in search of something unique then I would suggest you spend a couple hours getting lost among the clothes hangers. At Tabatha you can find Supreme like merchandise that reps the neighborhood of Shimokita with cute hats and jackets.

Some of the strangest things I saw in Tokyo was in this small neighborhood. I was walking down the street and noticed this mannequin and I had to step in to get a closer look.

One of the best stores I stumbled across was Far East Leather, founded in 1979. The store carries handmade wallets and purses.

What stood out to me most was the abundance of graffiti that could be found in Shimokita. I love to see different cities and cultures take on the art form and I was always saddened by its abcense in Tokyo. For a slice of the weird and quirky visit Shimokitazawa.

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Craft Sake Week

May 5, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

If you are in Tokyo for the cherry blossoms in early April, I highly suggest checking out Craft Sake Week. For a week and a half, they highlight 10 different breweries each day. I really wanted to attend the day celebrating Female Sake Brewers but I ended up attending the day where they hosted the ten best Sake breweries according to a sake rating app called Sakenomy. The drinks did not dissapoint.

To start, 3,500 Yen gets you six chips that you exchange for food and drink at any of the vendors. The sake prices ranges from 1-3 chips depending on how much the sake rice was polished before brewing. The bottles with only one chip were Junmaishu which means that 30% of the rice used for milling was polished away. Two chip sake was Ginjoshu meaning 40% of the rice was polished away and sake worth 3 chips was Daiginjoshu meaning 50% was polished away. You must have the same question I did: what does milling away the rice do for the sake? The alcohol in sake comes from fermenting the sugar. Whereas in wine made from grapes the sugar naturally occurs in the fruit, the sugar in sake comes from the starch from the inner kernel of the rice. Therefore polishing the rice is seen as removing the "impurities" or the outer shell that would take away from the pure flavor of the rice.

I started off trying all the Junmaishu sake's from the different breweries. The flavors ranged from tart to sweet. I slowly moved my up the chip later. I have to say I prefer the taste the Ginjoshu sakes' the best. They had the perfect balance with a light delicate flavor.

Craft Sake Week also had little games one could play in between their sake tastings.

Craft Sake Week is a great way to get a taste of the different varieties and types of Sake that Japan has to offer. I was excited to broaden my knowledge of sake to something outside of sake bombs.

Tsukiji Fish Market

April 30, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

The first time I ever had sushi was in a banquet hall during my teenage years. While the date and location are fuzzy the memories that are the strongest from that night was being tricked into eating wasabi and disliking sushi. I knew that for my upcoming travel to Japan I needed to get over my dislike of sushi. While in LA I made it my mission to get conquer my aversion. After a couple rolls and sake bombs I finally started to get the hang of the sushi life. However nothing prepared me for eating sushi in Tokyo.

One of the best and most famous places to eat sushi in Tokyo is at the Tsukiji Fish Market. The market itself has been operating in this location since it was relocated after an earthquake in 1923. The market is separated into inner and outer sections. The famous fish auction takes place at the inner market and has very limited seating that requires you to arrive around 4 am, before the trains open, in order to snag a seat.

For those who just want to eat sushi breakfast feel free to show up around 9 or 10 and the outer market will be full of fresh fish and tourists meandering its tiny alleys. The first thing I realized when eating sushi in Tokyo is the absence of maki, which is the sushi rolls we are so accustomed to in the states. While they definitely are available the most common form of sushi you find is nigri, which is fish placed on top of sushi rice. I found that with nigri the flavor and texture of the fish really shine through.

Now don't be tempted by the long lines of some of the more famous sushi shops in Tsukiji. Every restaurant in the outer market gets its fish at the same time from the inner market so quality doesn't vary. I advise wandering the markets looking our for signs like this:

I found that the cheapest restaurants were in the back of the outer market near the shrine. Some places near the front charged more money for the exact same products in the back so evaluate carefully. After I found my location I ordered three different kinds of tuna over rice.

One of the best breakfasts I've ever had.

I wouldn't order too much because there's so much more to eat in this market than sushi. I suggest starting off with sushi and then finishing off your breakfast with one of these.

After getting your fill, wander around the market and see all the cool shops and stores. I found a wine bar tucked into the back section of the market along with stalls selling dried fish and strawberries and anything else you could want.

As I was exploring the market I found a Shinto shrine hidden in the back. It's a great place to sit down and take a rest away from all the frenzied tourists in the outer market. The Namiyoke Inari Shrine was built in 1657 and its name means "protection from waves."

Exploring the market and eating some of the freshest fish was a great way to start my morning. A stop here is a must for anyone visiting this amazing city.

Fashion Meditation III

April 20, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

When I told people that Tokyo was the first stop on my international travels everyone asked me why? The question hidden inside those three letters was: Why would a black person go to Tokyo a place where there are no other black people? Which in all honestly is a fair question. Anti blackness is global and I knew that as a traveler the color of my skin would make me stand out in ways white people typically never have to worry about.

Now I'll be honest, before I came to Tokyo I did read a lot about what being black in Asia as a whole and Japan specifically would be like- Virgo' always do their research. The results were mixed some said that it wasn't an issue in big cities but going to more rural areas might prove difficult. Other people reflected that even in big cities they faced open hostility. What I knew for sure was that I wasn't just going to Tokyo as a black person but as a black trans person. While my blackness might make me stand out my gender non-conforming presentation would be a beacon.

I don't get stared at anymore in Tokyo from adults then I do in DC or New York . Now the group of people who are quite often surprised to see me are children under the age of 10. Which makes sense because as a homogenous culture where less than 1% of the total population is foreign they don't see a lot of difference

For those who've been following me on Instagram, link in the top right, you've noticed that I got some new hair right before I left for Tokyo. This has been my second trial with box braids and honestly so much better than the first time. My braids are much smaller this time so they don't weigh me down as much and I learned that pre-soaking your hair in an Apple Cider Vinegar solution takes off this film that makes your scalp itch. All but two Japanese people have touched my hair without permission. Otherwise people have been really respectful about asking first.

Now in the outfit above, which is my first trial at self-portraiture using my tripod, I wore my vintage Chanel jacket with a simple cotton shirt from ASOS and my favorite hat by this DC brand called Rent is Due. Sadly my hat and the braids didn't mix so I lost the hat one night while partying.

I wore this outfit to Senso-ji Temple. I actually wandered the ground with a suitcase of 3 different outfits to change into but the area was so crowded that this was the only good spot I found to set up my tripod. Now the skirt is from my favorite plus size brand Eloquii. I really suggest checking them out. I copped the Kaya Midi Skirt in lemon shine. Normally I prefer my skirts and dresses to fall above the knee because it elongates my frame but this midi skirt looked so good on me I couldn't send it back. The top is a shirt from Asos in this gorgeous cosmic geometric pattern. You really can't see the pattern in this photo because the sun was so bright but the two look amazing together. The flats are vintage from a thrift store in Chicago. The lip is from this black owned cosmetics brand called Coloured Raine and the color is Heart of Stone.

I really like how these first to attempts at portrait photography turned out. Remember to subscribe below so you never miss another chapter in the Archives of a DivaNun!

Senso-ji Temple

April 11, 2017 Ceraun Loggins

Incense smoke wafts out of the jokoro and over your body in a ritual act that’s been performed at the temple for the last four hundred years. The jokoro sits directly in front of the main hall of the Senso-ji Temple and is a place for you to purify your body before entering the sacred ground completed in 628- the oldest in Tokyo. The temple is dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of mercy.

Coming to Japan was an act of purification I didn’t know I needed. Far away from all of my comforts, there was nothing left for me to hide behind. And in that stillness, I grew more connected to my passion and what drew me to travel in the first place even though I had to cry to get there.

The first thing that greets you on your way towards the temple is the Kaminarimon, the Thunder Gate. A great red lantern with a dragon carved on the bottom hangs in between to statues of the gods of Thunder and Wind. I was surprised to learn that the statues present are restorations of the original.

Past the first gate is a market that has existed almost as long as the temple itself with some of the stalls operated by the same family for over 100 years. The street crowded and full of sweets, gifts, and paraphernalia is called Nakamise-Dori.

Towards the end lies the second gate the Hozomon which again was destroyed twice since it was built in 942.

The temple and the Nakamise-Dori aren't the only things to enjoy while exploring this site of rich history.

There are so many additional shrines and gardens and statues that dot the area. There are shrines dedicated to the people who built the temple. Statues that remember the service of important women from Japanese history.

Once you are off the main strip you get to enjoy the more quiet side of this Buddhist temple. There's a shaded area off to the left that I sat at while eating a Japanese sweet bread filled with ice cream. I thought about how the temple and its many parts have been destroyed so many times the most damaging being the air raids during WWII. But in the spirit of rebirth and peace, they were crafted anew. I hope that everyone who comes to this shrine dedicated to mercy leaves with compassion and forgiveness in their hearts, the same way I did.

I always say as long as you learn from your experiences then you should never regret them. I learned so much in my sadness that I rediscovered a happiness I haven't felt in years. I can't wait to continue to share the happy memories I'm making here in Tokyo!

The Hozomon Gate  and jokoro as seen from the temple. — The Hozomon Gate and jokoro as seen from the temple.